| debt management-Setting the Foundation Posted: 10 May 2009 02:13 PM PDT Lesson 1: Setting the Foundation Key points 1.As a financial topic, debt is simple. There are no complicated secrets, but -- unfortunately -- there are no easy solutions either. It's going to take discipline to bury the debt monster. Anybody who says otherwise is probably just after your money.
2.It doesn't take a reckless person or a wild spending spree to create a debt crisis. A consistent pattern of spending just a little more than you make, over time, can lead to a serious problem.
3.Compound interest is a powerful force that works either for you or against you. If you want this force on your side, you'll have to rise above the advertisers and bankers that are used to having the force on their side.
4."Good debts" combine a low, tax-adjusted interest rate with the potential to gain something that appreciates in value.Welcome to The How to Get Out Of Debt site quick course on beating debt! We are highly committed to turning net debtors into net savers, replacing the slavery of monthly payments with the joy of expanding investments. We sincerely hope that this series is a big step in that direction for you. Since you've decided to take a debt seminar, we're going to guess that money problems are at least nipping at your heels. Or perhaps - worst case - an overwhelming debt burden is pushing you to the edge of financial disaster. Since we don't know exactly where you are, we take a big-picture approach in this first lesson. If debt is not currently a problem - you're just here to learn and head off future problems - let's get started with the basics of managing debt and the fundamentals upon which you will build your financial success. Beating Debt Is Simple, But Not EasyGetting out of debt and staying out of debt is actually pretty simple, at least compared to most money management topics. It boils down to spending less money than you make, on a consistent, long-term basis. That's it. Nothing else will get the job done. Nothing. And it's easy too. Right? Wrong! While conquering debt won't send you scrambling for thick math textbooks, it's an ocean away from easy. One moment of weakness - or worse, one cruel act of fate - and you're scratching and clawing your way back out of the hole. It's not easy. So, how did something so simple get to be so hard? Because beating debt demands a lot of will power over a long period of time. If you've been a human being for any length of time, you know that this is one tough combination to nail down. We know we're preaching and it's a pretty depressing sermon. But we're afraid there's no getting around it. Over the long term, regularly spending more than you make - even just a little more - will bring your financial house down, even if you are the most responsible of bill payers. Until this basic lesson is taken to heart, even bankruptcy is just a temporary solution. How Careful Do You Have to Be?Consider two simple examples, starting with a positive one. Let's say that you begin setting aside $75 every month, in savings earning 5% interest. If you can pull this off for five years, you'll end up with a comforting $5,100 in emergency savings. Now, let's turn this picture on its head, and assume that you come up short by the same $75 per month, on average, over the same five years. Further, assume that you routinely patch over this difference with a credit card. Note that we're talking about less than $20 per week here - hardly a symptom of reckless "retail therapy." Nonetheless, at the end of five years you'll be looking at more than $7,200 in debt, assuming an 18% credit card interest rate. That's an extra $2,100 in debt, beyond the $5,100 earned by saving $75 per month. This is the difference between saving and paying down debt. Saving is hard enough, but paying down debt is $2,100 harder! And this difference just gets bigger as time goes on. While your bank savings work hard twenty-four hours a day to make you more money, any outstanding credit card debt is likely to be working three times harder, charging a much higher interest rate than your savings pay. Moreover, as a saver you have the force of compound interest on your side, the idea that your balance starts to snowball as you earn interest not only on your deposits but also on the interest payments you leave in the account. As a debtor, this same powerful compounding force works against you, and the higher the interest rate, the faster the snowball builds. Good Debt versus Bad DebtWe've been talking tough about consumer debt, but we do realize that some debts are an inescapable part of life for most of us. Still, even when we carry debt, there are some basic debt management rules that will keep the lid on problems: * Be especially wary of double-digit debt - credit cards and loans that charge 10% or more in annual interest. At this level, balances snowball quickly, and it's tough to get a return on the borrowed money that beats this cost. * Good debts, like some mortgages and student loans, combine two things:1) a relatively low, tax-adjusted interest rate; and 2) the potential to invest in something that, over the long run, will grow in value. * Ignore banker's rules for "acceptable" levels of debt. These are designed by banks to maximize their income. Their calculations cleverly keep you far enough under water that you continue to pay them interest, but not so deep that you go broke. Don't be a slave. Set tighter rules on your own. Summary - The Personal Finance Divide Somewhere in every mountain range there is a line that divides water flow. On one side of the line, for example, water flows east. On the other, it flows west. Regardless of direction, these rivers and streams start out as a trickle but quickly pick up speed as they head down the mountain, finishing as raging torrents. Money and wealth work exactly the same way. Over time, you'll end up on either the savings or the debt side of the personal finance divide. It doesn't take much to nudge you one way or the other, but once a direction is established, the momentum tends to build and it gets harder and harder to go back. If you want to "nudge" yourself in the savings direction, just remember that it all boils down to spending less money than you make, on a consistent long-term basis. (We're hoping you've noticed that this is an important point.)  |
| Six Steps to Eliminating Credit Card Debt Posted: 10 May 2009 02:13 PM PDT
Lesson 2: Six Steps to Eliminating Credit Card Debt
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Key points
- Unpaid credit card balances are the worst kind of debt.
Come up with a plan for paying these off, and make it a priority. We
offer six steps to get you started.
- Personal finance is confusing enough without a stack of
credit cards to track. Your goal should be to carry only one or two
credit cards with balances paid in full every month.
Now that you have a sense of "good debt" and "bad debt," you might be worrying about one thing: that you have way too much of the bad stuff! (Or maybe not: if you're keeping the bad debt to a minimum, give yourself a pat on the back.)
If you're like many people, though, you're staring at a big pile of
credit card debt that is costing you plenty in monthly payments. Not to
worry, though, because in this lesson we're going to talk about how you
can pay that debt down, and keep your credit card use under control in
the future.
Pay Down That Credit Debt
There are millions of Americans out there who have paid off heavy
credit card debt, and now it's your turn to join them. It won't be
enough, however, to just make minimum monthly payments. Here are six
bigger steps you can take to get your debt under control:
- Stop using your cards. The last thing you want to
do with heavy credit card debt is add to it. Take all your credit cards
out of your wallet or purse, and leave them at home (though you may
want to keep one for emergencies -- and, no, a really great sale or a
cool new CD player does not qualify as an emergency).
Cut up the
cards if that's what it takes to stop using them. Some people keep
their cards out of reach by freezing them in glasses of water.
- Stop the flood of credit card offers. You can
force credit bureaus to stop selling your name and address. Dial
1-888-5-OPTOUT to get the forms. If you're searching for a low interest
card, don't wait for it to come to you. Visit a site like cardweb.com or bankrate.com to do your own research.
- Always pay more than the minimum. The credit
card companies are not just being nice when they require only a small
minimum payment on your total balance. They calculate this minimum to
extend your payments for as long as possible, to boost their profits.
Scrimp if you need to, and pay as much as you can above the minimum
every month.
- Plan your attack. Don't just throw yourself
at a mountain of debt without preparation. How many cards do you have?
What interest rates do they charge? Which have the highest balances?
Write down your balances for each card, and their interest rates.
(There's space in the workbook for this.)
Generally,
you'll want to start by paying off the card with the highest rate
first, and then the next highest, and so on. If you want a quick boost,
go ahead and pay off a card with a low balance, just to have one
paid-off card under your belt.
- Reduce the interest rate. Most credit cards
charge anywhere from 16% to 20%, which is huge! But you can negotiate
with your credit card company for a lower rate. Particularly if you've
had any of your cards for a while, take advantage of being a faithful
customer, and call them up to demand a lower rate. Shoot for 11% or
12%. You'd be surprised at how easy it is.
- Consolidate your debts. OK, so you know what
the interest rates and outstanding balances are for each of your cards,
and you've reduced the rate on at least some of them. Next, consider
combining your debts onto one or two of your lowest rate cards, if
you've got some credit room on them. (If you're maxed out on those
cards, then forget it.) Simply call your lender and ask how to transfer
funds.
If you're making payments well above the minimum, have reduced the
interest rates on your cards, and have consolidated your debt, then
you're in good shape with your credit card debt. We'll discuss
additional steps you may need to take for better overall debt
management in Lesson Four.
How Many Cards Are Enough?
In the end, your goal is to carry only one or two credit cards, and
pay off the balances each month. If you've gotten carried away and have
five, six, or more cards, consider the benefits of closing out most of
them:
- Simplicity. Fewer cards will be easier to track.
In addition, you'll have a much better sense of your overall debt level
when it's on one or two cards, rather than spread across a bunch of
them.
- Better credit record. You'll want to have at least
one credit card to help build your credit history. If you're married,
your spouse should have at least one card in his or her name only, for
the same reason. Too many cards can hurt your credit rating,
particularly if they all have large unpaid balances.
- Less temptation. The more cards you have, the easier it is to rationalize excessive spending. "After all, this
card only has $500 on it!" (Never mind that you've got two more that
are carrying $5,000 each.) But, remember that your card's credit limits
are not like poker bets: you don't have to match (or much less "raise")
them. Fewer cards, lower balances: that's your goal.
Summary
We've given you six concrete steps toward getting credit card debt under control. Head to your workbook
for some hands-on debt intervention. Hopefully, you share our vision of
two credit cards, maximum, with balance paid in full each month. At
this point, however, you may be thinking, "Hey, this is all great
advice, but you're forgetting one tiny, little detail, like, um...Where
am I going to get the money to pay off all of these debts!?"
Of course this is a great question. And to answer it for yourself,
we're afraid you're going to have to tackle everyone's favorite, the
"B" word. It's waiting for you in Lesson Three.
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| debt management-The "B" Word Posted: 10 May 2009 02:12 PM PDT
Lesson 3: The "B" Word
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Key points
- Discipline is great, but you'll also need information if
you plan to cut down on spending. This information comes from a budget.
Even a simple, top-level budget can be surprisingly valuable.
- Short-term savings goals are a great way to enforce
spending discipline. Keep giving yourself the occasional treat, but get
in the habit of planning for them.
As we said at the outset of the seminar, beating debt is simple, but
not easy. For one thing, we are relentlessly driven by advertisers to
"keep up" with our friends and neighbors. Moreover, every time we turn
around we are confronted by the opportunity to get it now and worry
about paying for it later. Some credit card companies go so far as to
tell us that we "deserve" more stuff (sweet, aren't they?).
If you want to rise above all of this and take control of your
finances, you'll need a different perspective and the motivation to act
accordingly. So, the next time you're about to spend money that you
don't have on something that you don't really need, don't waste your
time feeling guilty (when has this ever worked anyway?). Instead, ask
yourself two basic questions:
- If I can't pay for it in full this month, what is going to change
next month? Where will the extra income or reduced spending come from?
Be specific.
- What fun, motivational one-year savings goal am I working towards?
Question One: B is for Budget
If you read question number one carefully, it's obvious that it
can't be answered effectively without a good understanding of how much
money is coming in every month and exactly where it's being spent.
Creating a detailed budget is obviously the best way to develop this
kind of insight but, for some reason, it's also among the toughest of
personal finance tasks to pull off. On the surface, it doesn't seem so
difficult, but it's amazing how few people actually complete the task.
If you're among those who have succeeded in setting up a budget,
please accept our heartiest congratulations. You'll skate through the
workbook exercises.
If you're in the much bigger group, however -- those of us who don't
budget, or haven't gotten to it yet -- don't give up yet. In the
workbook exercise, we'll get you started with a shortcut budget with
just enough work to make your question one answers pack a good punch.
Question Two: Motivation
Developing a budget, saving money, and sending out debt payments
make for a pretty dull life. You have to let a little sun shine in, or
you're bound to collapse under the strain and give up. One good way to
add some zest to the game -- while providing a motivational edge at the
same time -- is to come up with a fun one-year savings goal.
So, sit down and think about it. If there is a spouse and children
involved -- who will surely be wondering why money is suddenly so tight
-- get them in on the reward planning too. Together, come up with
something fun that will keep you all focused. |
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| debt Avoiding Setbacks Posted: 10 May 2009 02:11 PM PDT
Lesson 4: Avoiding Setbacks
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Key points
- Don't attack debt so aggressively that you risk trading good debt for bad.
- Planning for emergencies is a key element to any debt
management strategy. In particular, don't trade unsecured debt for
secured unless you are well prepared for financial emergencies.
So far, when we've discussed the details of debt, we've focused
mainly on credit cards. In this lesson, we'll expand the topic and
consider some common questions regarding other forms of debt.
Q. Once my credit card debt is under control, should I aggressively pay down any car loans? Student loans? My mortgage?
A. Ideally, we'd all be 100% debt free. But, for
many of us, this just isn't a practical option, at least not in the
near term. And if we have to carry a little debt, we at least want to
control the terms. The risk in paying down debt too aggressively is
that we can lose control of the terms. This is where saving for an
emergency enters the picture.
For example, let's say that -- in an effort to pay off their
mortgage early -- a couple is making double mortgage payments every
month. They're cutting it so thin, however, that they fail to save any
cash for emergencies. Then, all of a sudden, one of them gets laid off.
Now, instead of making double payments, they're having a lot of trouble
making the required single payment each month. In the worst-case
scenario, the couple is forced back to high interest credit card debt
to make ends meet.
So, we're all for aggressive debt repayment, but don't spread
yourself so thin that it's hard to sleep at night. And don't neglect
emergency savings. Moreover, the after-tax interest cost of mortgage
loans can get down into the 6% range, a level at which investing any
extra cash might be more profitable, over the long run, than paying
down the debt. So be sure to start with the higher interest,
non-tax-deductible loans, like car loans. For most homeowners, the
mortgage should be the last loan you attack.
Q. Besides emergencies, what other things can upset loan repayment plans?
A. When we talk about saving for emergencies, we're
talking about real emergencies like losing a job or suffering an
extended disability. We're not talking about the car
insurance payment that slipped your mind or even replacing a broken
down refrigerator. Try to budget beyond the monthly must-pay bills to
cover things like future appliance needs, vacations, and next year's
tuition payments. Failure to do so can lead to a demoralizing step
backwards -- to credit card debt -- just when you were starting to make
real progress.
Q. Should I consolidate multiple debts under one loan?
A. Maybe, but there are some important pros and cons to think through first. The most obvious benefits of loan consolidation are:
- Lower Interest Rate. It may be possible to borrow
at an attractive rate, and then use this money to pay off higher
interest rate loans, effectively "moving" a chunk of your debt to a
lower-cost loan.
- Simplification. It's easier to be disciplined if you're organized, and it's easier to be organized with fewer outstanding loans to track.
But consolidation is not without risks. Just as we saw above, planning for emergencies comes into play:
Trading Unsecured Debt for Secured Debt. Lower rate
loans are commonly "secured," meaning that the debt is backed by your
home, car, or some other tangible possession. Putting your valuable
stuff "on the line," so to speak, is what gets you the lower interest
rate. From the lender's perspective, it removes a lot of the bad credit
risk from the deal.
The down side to secured loans, though, is that if you hit an
extended rough spot and default on the loan, you can literally lose
your stuff. Even bankruptcy laws may not protect your home, for
example, if your mortgage turns out to be the secured loan that you
can't pay.
For this reason, many personal finance experts lay down a firm line. They'll tell you never to trade unsecured debt, like credit card balances, for secured debt. For example, the standard advice is not to roll credit card debt into your mortgage or a home equity loan.
On the other hand, this advice is too conservative for some.
Borrowing against the value of personal possessions is sometimes the
only way out of lousy, high interest rate loans. If you do decide to
put your stuff at risk, be sure to consider whether you have adequate
life and disability insurance, a secure and stable job, and some
emergency cash set aside before you take the plunge.
Summary
When you get past credit cards, managing debt gets a little more
complicated. Keep attacking aggressively, but be sure to plan ahead,
especially for financial emergencies. You don't want to take a step
backward into credit card debt or, worse, default on a secured loan.
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| Debt Triage Posted: 10 May 2009 02:10 PM PDT
Lesson 5: (Optional)
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Key points
- If debt troubles have pushed you to the edeege of sanity,
STOP... and take a deep breath. It may seem like the end of the world,
but we can assure you that it's not.
- It's in everyone's best interest -- both yours and the
people to whom you owe money -- to get you out of crisis mode and into
a repayment plan that you can handle. Nobody wins if you spiral
down to bankruptcy.
- The laws are actually on your side, although you'll have to get organized to take advantage of them.
- A good credit counseling service can turn your life
around, but please choose carefully. For some reason debt problems draw
a lot scam artists.
Are you being hounded by debt collectors or intimidated by lenders?
If so, we have some good news and some bad news. The good news is that
you are well protected by federal laws; the bad news is that it will
take a disciplined effort on your part to take advantage of these laws.
So, before we get into specifics, here are three general strategies that will help anyone battling a debt problem.
- Start a record of every conversation you have, from here on out,
with lenders, credit bureaus, bill collectors, etc., by phone or in
person. We provide some space in the workbook for you to do this. Be
aggressive on the phone. Get names and write them down, along with
dates and key discussion topics, including any agreements reached or
promises made.
- Save all related mail, including postmarked envelopes. When
it's your turn to send something important, go to the post office and
ask for a registered or certified letter and request a receipt that
proves it was received.
- Be courteous and diplomatic, but make it clear to everyone
involved that you know your rights, are keeping careful records, and
won't be intimidated.
Yippee! Sounds like fun, eh? OK, we know these tasks are a drag. But
if you can force yourself to do them, you'll be armed with the facts
for each new round of battle against your creditors, and you'll gain a
comforting sense of control over the whole process.
Now for some specifics...
Start at the Source
Always start by contacting the businesses to which you owe money.
Yes, we realize that this is about as much fun as giving a speech in
your underwear, but it's generally to your advantage. When push comes
to shove, most businesses would rather not bring in a costly bill
collector. Faced with this option, most would rather work out a
repayment plan that you can handle.
Know Your Rights
- By law, debt collectors cannot contact you before 8 a.m. or after 9
p.m., and cannot otherwise harass you, your family or friends, or tell
lies.
- If a debt collector threatens you with jail time, it's guaranteed to be a lie. Debtors are never jailed in this country, and nobody can even garnish your wages without a legal proceeding.
- You can prevent workplace calls or visits from a debt collector by requesting that you not be bothered there. Put it in writing!
- Since debt collectors can be sued for failing to follow these
(and other) rules, you can sometimes turn the intimidation tables on
them by mentioning that you are familiar with the law.
- For more help in dealing with troublesome debt collectors, contact the Federal Trade Commission at 1-877-FTC-HELP, or online at http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/credit/fdc.htm
Choose Your Friends Carefully
A good credit counseling organization can make all the difference.
These offer everything from expert advice and a sympathetic ear to
hands-on budgeting help. Many will even step in -- between you and
those you owe -- to negotiate repayment plans that you can handle.
Many of these counseling services are non-profit organizations that
offer services free of charge or for just a small fee to those who can
afford it. A good place to start is the National Foundation for Credit
Counseling (NFCC), a national network of Neighborhood Financial Care
Centers (NFCC). Call them at 800-388-2227 to find out if there is a
center in your area.
Unfortunately, for every such worthy organization, there are dozens
of rip-off artists preying on vulnerable debtors. Anyone who promises
to "quickly wipe your record clean" for a small fee, or similar magic
tricks, is probably a thief. Be especially wary of pressure sales
tactics. Most reputable counselors will wait for you to come to them.
Summary
Take advantage of the law and credit counseling to get back on firm
ground.These actions won't erase your debts. Chances are
you'll owe just as much money. But at least you'll be in a position
where you can think clearly and start laying the foundation for putting
debt behind you forever.
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| How to Get Out Of Debt Frequently Asked Questions Posted: 10 May 2009 02:08 PM PDT
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How to Get Out Of Debt Frequently Asked Questions |
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1. How do I build a strong credit rating?
Pay your bills on time, especially mortgage or rent
payments. Apart from extreme circumstances like bankruptcy
or tax liens, nothing has the impact of late payments. Anything more
than 30 days late will hurt you. Never let a payment of any kind --
even phone or utility bills -- get 90 days past due.
Limit your debt. If you absolutely must carry a
balance on any accounts, keep that balance as low as possible.
Bumping up against your credit limit on one or more cards is a
signal to many lenders that you're not a good debt manager.
Be careful not to apply for too much credit in a short
amount of time. Multiple requests for your credit history
(not including requests by you to check your file) will reduce your
credit score. If you are hunting around for good loan rates, assume
that every time you give your Social Security number to a lender or
credit card company, they will order a credit history.
Check your credit history for errors. This is
especially important if you will soon be requesting a time-dependent
loan, like a mortgage. All three national credit reporting agencies
-- Equifax (1-800-685-1111), Experian (1-888-567-8688), and
Transunion (1-800 888-4213) -- have consumer ordering information on
their websites. You can also order reports from Truecredit.com
(1-800-493-2392).
2. That all sounds great, but I've already made some
mistakes. How do I clear up a negative credit history?
The bad news is that past credit problems like late bill payments
or accounts referred to collection will stay on your credit report.
The good news, however, is that they affect your credit rating less
as time passes. You can lessen the sting of your less-than-angelic
history by habitually paying current bills on time. Your report
changes gradually as new information is added to your bank and
credit bureau files, and credit issuers give more weight to your
recent bill-paying history. A clean record for the last year or two
can make a real difference.
3. Should I borrow from my 401(k), or a similar
retirement plan, to pay back loans?
In general, this is a bad idea. Think about it this way: Your
current situation may seem like a nightmare, but imagine facing the
same set of circumstances in old age, without sufficient retirement
savings. Sound fun?
Sure, you'll make your loan payments back into your own
retirement savings (and, make no mistake, this is a good thing!),
but while the money is out of the plan, it stops working for you,
delaying compound gains. Also, if you change jobs, you might have to
pay off the loan in a hurry, or face a permanent dent in your
tax-sheltered retirement savings plus some penalties for good
measure.
Finally, if your budget can accommodate these loan payments back
into your plan, why mess with your nest egg in the first place? If
at all possible, dig deeper for another option. Pre-tax savings
plans are just such a powerful tool, and saving for retirement is so
much easier if you start early and leave the money alone.
4. Do I really have to have a credit card? I've had
trouble controlling my spending in the past, and so prefer not to
carry one.
If you've been burned by credit card debt and are reluctant to
carry a card again, consider setting up automatic monthly charges to
your card's account for regular, recurring bills such as newspaper
subscriptions or your phone. Then lock the card away where it's not
a temptation. That way you can start building a credit history.
Although they have their dangers, credit cards are still the
easiest way to establish a credit history. It can be difficult to
get a loan anywhere else -- including a mortgage -- without having
documented credit history. You don't have to use your cards much to
improve your credit rating, or incur interest charges by carrying a
balance. Banks and other lending institutions, especially those that
don't know you as a long-time customer, just want some evidence that
you can handle credit responsibly. The sooner you get started the
better, especially if you are currently renting but plan to buy a
house someday.
5. Is it better to carry a gold card? Does it look better
on my credit history?
While platinum and gold cards often offer special perks such as
frequent flyer miles for dollars spent, additional travel insurance,
and automatic rental auto insurance, these perks may not be worth
the annual fees -- often in the range of $85-$150 -- you'll have to
cough up to carry the card. If you're thinking about signing up for
one of these cards, realistically consider if the rewards correspond
to your lifestyle, and if they outweigh the cost of what is probably
a substantial annual fee.
Be wary of platinum or gold card offers that promise to improve
your credit rating or gain you approval for major credit cards you
wouldn't otherwise get. Often the only additional card you might get
is a secured credit card that requires a substantial security
deposit with a bank. In addition, many of these credit-card
purveyors do not report to credit bureaus as they promise, and their
cards seldom help secure lines of credit with other creditors.
Such 'gold' and 'platinum' credit-card offers usually are
promoted through television or newspaper advertisements, direct
mail, or telephone solicitations using automatic dialing machines
and recorded messages. Show them you're the wiser by not responding
to such ads, or consider taking the necessary steps to opt out by
calling 1-888-5-OPTOUT.
6. Should I declare bankruptcy?
Although it may be tempting to declare bankruptcy if you are
feeling overwhelmed by financial obligations you just can't meet,
bankruptcy should only be considered as a last resort. Contrary to
what you may have heard, bankruptcy does not wipe clean your credit
history, nor does it provide a fresh start.
Consider that:
- Bankruptcy stays on your credit report for up to ten years.
- If you declare bankruptcy, you will have difficulty getting future credit such as a mortgage loan.
- After bankruptcy, any credit you do get will probably cost you more in terms of interest rates and fees charged.
- Alimony, child support, and most taxes survive bankruptcy and will still be owed.
Before you consider bankruptcy, try to work out a payment plan with
your creditors, or set up a debt-repayment program by contacting an
NFCC-member financial help center at 1-800-388-2227.
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